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Dispersive and non-dispersive nonlinear long wave transformations: Numerical and experimental results
Abstract : The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water. This provides the foundation for a subsequent discussion about tsunami wave propagation and run-up on a sloping beach, and in particular the role of wave dispersion for this problem. Wave tank experiments show that wave dispersion can play a significant role for the propagation and wave transformation of wave signals that include some higher frequency components. However, the maximum run-up height is less sensitive to dispersive effects, suggesting that run-up height can be adequately calculated by use of non-dispersive model equations.
Cited literature [31 references]
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-02289778
Contributor : Denys Dutykh <>
Submitted on : Tuesday, September 17, 2019 - 10:27:02 AM
Last modification on : Tuesday, December 17, 2019 - 10:04:18 AM
Document(s) archivé(s) le : Saturday, February 8, 2020 - 11:12:02 PM
Contributor : Denys Dutykh <>
Submitted on : Tuesday, September 17, 2019 - 10:27:02 AM
Last modification on : Tuesday, December 17, 2019 - 10:04:18 AM
Document(s) archivé(s) le : Saturday, February 8, 2020 - 11:12:02 PM
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