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Dispersive and non-dispersive nonlinear long wave transformations: Numerical and experimental results

Abstract : The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water. This provides the foundation for a subsequent discussion about tsunami wave propagation and run-up on a sloping beach, and in particular the role of wave dispersion for this problem. Wave tank experiments show that wave dispersion can play a significant role for the propagation and wave transformation of wave signals that include some higher frequency components. However, the maximum run-up height is less sensitive to dispersive effects, suggesting that run-up height can be adequately calculated by use of non-dispersive model equations.
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Submitted on : Tuesday, September 17, 2019 - 10:27:02 AM
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Tomas Torsvik, Ahmed Abdalazeez, Denys Dutykh, Petr Denissenko, Ira Didenkulova. Dispersive and non-dispersive nonlinear long wave transformations: Numerical and experimental results. Berezovski A., Soomere T. Applied Wave Mathematics II. Mathematics of Planet Earth, 6, Springer, pp.41-60, 2019, 978-3-030-29951-4. ⟨10.1007/978-3-030-29951-4_3⟩. ⟨hal-02289778⟩

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