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Modélisation du déferlement dû à la bathymétrie dans un code de simulation des vagues non-linéaires et dispersives en zone côtière

Abstract : The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in shallow water within a fully nonlinear and disper-sive wave model is investigated. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory and initially assumes non-overturning waves. Inclusion of breaking dissipation is however possible by adding a pressure-like term to the dynamic free surface boundary condition. Two criteria from the literature are tested to determine the onset of breaking, one geometric and another energetic. Two methods are tested in order to dissipate the energy due to breaking, the first based on the analogy of a breaking wave with a breaking hydraulic jump, and the second relying on an eddy viscosity dissipative term. Numerical simulations are performed using combinations of the two criteria and the two dissipation methods. The results are compared with experiments of waves breaking over a submerged bar, considering first regular waves, and then irregular waves. It is shown that the different approaches are able to reproduce the wave transformation observed in the experiments, although additional tests remain to be performed to fully validate the model for a wider range of conditions.
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  • HAL Id : hal-02121107, version 1

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B Simon, C Papoutsellis, M. Benoit, M. Yates. Modélisation du déferlement dû à la bathymétrie dans un code de simulation des vagues non-linéaires et dispersives en zone côtière. Actes des 16èmes Journées de l'Hydrodynamique, Nov 2018, marseille, France. ⟨hal-02121107⟩

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