Nearshore wave processes in the Iroise Sea: field measurements and modelling

Jean-François Filipot (1) , Volker Roeber (2) , Martial Boutet (1) , Cédric Ody (1) , Cyril Lathuiliere (1) , Stéphanie Louazel (1) , Thierry Schmitt (1) , Fabrice Ardhuin (3) , André Lusven (1) , Michel Outré (1) , Serge S. Suanez (4) , Alain Hénaff (4)

1 SHOM - Service Hydrographique et Océanographique de la Marine
2 UHM - University of Hawai‘i [Mānoa]
3 LOS - Laboratoire d'Océanographie Spatiale
4 LETG - Brest - Littoral, Environnement, Télédétection, Géomatique

A sample of observations gathered during the PROTEVS-VAGUES 2012 field experiment is presented. A focus is done on the analysis of five instruments deployed over Sein Island south coast. Waves and their effects on the mean water level are examined in the case of a long wave event that occurred on February 11, 2013. The nonlinear wave processes observed in the nearshore are found to be similar to those found over tropical reefs. Preliminary simulations of the Boussinesq type model, BOSZ, show encouraging results. BOSZ captures the main hydrodynamic processes such as refraction, shoaling, and wave breaking, but also accounted for second-order processes such as wave setup and the inherent recirculation in the surf zone.

Mots clés: Numerical modeling; flood hazards; coastal erosion; infra-gravity waves; Brittany

Domaines: Géomorphologie; Physique Atmosphérique et Océanique [physics.ao-ph]

Jean-François Filipot, Volker Roeber, Martial Boutet, Cédric Ody, Cyril Lathuiliere, et al.. Nearshore wave processes in the Iroise Sea: field measurements and modelling. Coastal Dynamics 2013 - 7th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics, Jun 2013, Arcachon, France. p. 605-614. ⟨hal-00879930⟩