Skip to Main content Skip to Navigation
Journal articles

Run-up amplification of transient long waves

Abstract : The extreme characteristics of long wave run-up are studied in this paper. First we give a brief overview of the existing theory which is mainly based on the hodograph transformation (Carrier & Greenspan, 1958). Then, using numerical simulations, we build on the work of Stefanakis et al. (2011) for an infinite sloping beach and we find that resonant run-up amplification of monochromatic waves is robust to spectral perturbations of the incoming wave and resonant regimes do exist for certain values of the frequency. In the setting of a finite beach attached to a constant depth region, resonance can only be observed when the incoming wavelength is larger than the distance from the undisturbed shoreline to the seaward boundary. Wavefront steepness is also found to play a role in wave run-up, with steeper waves reaching higher run-up values.
Complete list of metadata

Cited literature [43 references]  Display  Hide  Download
Contributor : Denys Dutykh Connect in order to contact the contributor
Submitted on : Saturday, May 18, 2013 - 12:07:51 AM
Last modification on : Monday, October 11, 2021 - 10:16:54 AM
Long-term archiving on: : Monday, August 19, 2013 - 2:30:09 AM


Files produced by the author(s)



Themistoklis Stefanakis, Shanshan Xu, Denys Dutykh, Frédéric Dias. Run-up amplification of transient long waves. Quarterly of Applied Mathematics, American Mathematical Society, 2015, 73, pp.177-199. ⟨10.1090/S0033-569X-2015-01377-0⟩. ⟨hal-00768597v3⟩



Les métriques sont temporairement indisponibles