Comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance

Charlene Hubert (1) , Cristelle Mériadec (1) , Pascal Panizza (1) , Franck Artzner (1) , Helene de Clermont-Gallerande (2)

1 IPR - Institut de Physique de Rennes
2 CHANEL Parfums Beauté

The long-lasting make-up was created to avoid migration of the product on the skin throughout the day. Currently, the formulation technology most commonly used to obtain it is based on the use of film-forming agents with volatile oils. However, with the growing trend in natural cosmetics, petroleum-based volatile compounds are increasingly being abandoned. The objective of this study is to determine whether a mixture of plant-based butters can be chosen to replace a mixture of volatile oil and synthetic wax in a long-lasting eyeshadow. Initial comparisons were made between two jojoba butters and a wax/volatile oil mixture in order to identify the best candidate to replace the latter. Then, the best candidate was incorporated into formula and finished formulas were compared using sensory evaluation, rheology and X-ray scattering. The results show that it is possible to preserve texture, rheological properties and structural organization of a formula by replacing a wax/oil mixture with vegetable butters. However, this does not mean that the formulas will behave the same on the eyelids over time. This work illustrates the real complexity faced by formulators when they must replace one raw material with another while guaranteeing the durability of all the product's properties. This challenge is more relevant today as consumer demand for products based on natural ingredients is growing.

Mots clés: formulation; long-lasting eyeshadow; volatile oil; jojoba butters

Domaines: Physique [physics]

Charlene Hubert, Cristelle Mériadec, Pascal Panizza, Franck Artzner, Helene de Clermont-Gallerande. Comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance. OCL Oilseeds and fats crops and lipids, 2020, 27, pp.42. ⟨10.1051/ocl/2020035⟩. ⟨hal-02957374⟩