Physical Modeling Of Extreme Waves Propagating From The Open Sea To The Coastal Zone
Résumé
The propagation of solitary waves above an horizontal bottom and a sloping bottom is considered in this paper. Experiments are carried out in a wave flume above smooth beds. The solitary waves are generated with a piston-type wave maker, using an impulsive mechanism (Marin, F et al. (2005)). Close to the generation zone, the profile contains elevation and depression components. These depressions are attached to the main solitary wave during the propagation along the flume. The energy damping along the horizontal and sloping bottoms (Zhang, C et al. (2010)), the wave height variation in the shoaling zone, the breaking modes and the runup height are investigated. It is shown that spatiotemporal diagrams are adapted for tracking the evolution of solitary waves propagating from a horizontal bed to a sloping bed (Chang, L et al. (2014)). The breaking parameters are obtained using high resolution cameras. Present results are in good agreement with earlier studies (Hsiao, S et al 2008). A new formula is proposed for the estimation of runup height. Figure 1. Sketch of the experimental setup A 0 = Amplitude of solitary wave 3 meter form the wave maker, m. A 1 , A 2 = Wave heights for water depths h 1 and h 2 , m. A b = Breaking height, m. A s = Solitary wave amplitude, m A t = Amplitude of solitary wave at the toe of the beach, m. C gr = = Group velocity corresponding to the main solitary wave, m.s-1 E = Energy on a unit length in the direction transversal in the direction of wave propagation, J.m-1 g = Acceleration of gravity, m.s-2 h 0 = Stillwater depth, m h b = Breaking depth, m. L 0 = Wave length scale, m. R = Runup height, m. S 0 = Slope parameter. T = Duration of impulse, s β = 0.04= Slope, rad. ε=A 0 /h 0 = Non linearity parameter (1). ε'=A t /h 0 = Non linearity parameter (2). ɳ = free surface elevation, m <ɳ> = mean water level, m ρ = Water density, 1g.cm-3
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