Service interruption on Monday 11 July from 12:30 to 13:00: all the sites of the CCSD (HAL, EpiSciences, SciencesConf, AureHAL) will be inaccessible (network hardware connection).
Skip to Main content Skip to Navigation
Journal articles

Comparing methods of modeling depth-induced breaking of irregular waves with a fully nonlinear potential flow approach

Abstract : The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves. Including the impacts of wave breaking dissipation is however possible by implementing a wave breaking initiation criterion and dissipation mechanism. Three criteria from the literature, including a geometric, kinematic, and dynamic-type criterion, are tested to determine the optimal criterion predicting the onset of wave breaking. Three wave breaking energy dissipation methods are also tested: the first two are based on the analogy of a breaking wave with a hydraulic jump, and the third one applies an eddy viscosity dissipative term. Numerical simulations are performed using combinations of the three breaking onset criteria and three dissipation methods. The simulation results are compared to observations from four laboratory experiments of regular and irregular waves breaking over a submerged bar, irregular waves breaking on a beach, and irregular waves breaking over a submerged slope. The different breaking approaches provide similar results after proper calibration. The wave transformation observed in the experiments is reproduced well, with better results for the case of regular waves than irregular waves. Moreover, the wave statistics and wave spectra are predicted well in general, and in particular for regular waves. Some differences are observed for irregular wave cases, in particular in the low-frequency range. This is attributed to incomplete absorption of the long waves in the numerical model. Otherwise, the wave spectra in the range [0.5fp, 5fp] are reproduced well, before, inside, and after the breaking zone for the three irregular wave experiments.
Complete list of metadata

Cited literature [43 references]  Display  Hide  Download
Contributor : Michel Benoit Connect in order to contact the contributor
Submitted on : Thursday, December 5, 2019 - 2:18:59 PM
Last modification on : Tuesday, April 19, 2022 - 10:17:14 AM
Long-term archiving on: : Friday, March 6, 2020 - 4:54:00 PM


Files produced by the author(s)



Bruno Simon, Christos Papoutsellis, Michel Benoit, Marissa L. yates. Comparing methods of modeling depth-induced breaking of irregular waves with a fully nonlinear potential flow approach. Journal of Ocean Engineering and Marine Energy, Springer, 2019, ⟨10.1007/s40722-019-00154-7⟩. ⟨hal-02395358⟩



Record views


Files downloads