, advances in geophysical and environmental mechanics and mathematics, p.255, 2008.
laboratory measurements of deep-water breaking waves, Philos. Trans. R. Soc. Lond. A, vol.331, pp.735-800, 1990. ,
Evolution of a quasi-steady breaking waves, J. Fluid Mech, vol.302, pp.29-44, 1995. ,
A laboratory study of non-linear surface waves on water, Philos. Trans. R. Soc. Lond. A, vol.354, pp.1-285, 1996. ,
An experimental study of deep water plunging breakers, phys. Fluids, vol.8, issue.9, pp.2365-2374, 1996. ,
A comparison of two and three dimensional wave breaking, J. Phys. Oceanogr, vol.28, pp.1496-1510, 1998. ,
A laboratory study of the focusing of transient and directionally spread surface water waves, Proceedings of the Royal Society A, vol.457, pp.971-1006, 2001. ,
Inertial scaling of dissipation in unsteady breaking waves, J. Fluid Mech, vol.611, pp.307-332, 2008. ,
Energy dissipation in two-dimensional unsteady plunging breakers and an eddy viscosity model, J. Fluid Mech, pp.217-275, 2010. ,
Detuning and wave breaking during nonlinear surface wave focusing, vol.113, pp.215-223, 2016. ,
Frequency spectra evolution of two-dimensional focusing wave groups in finite water depth water, J. Fluid Mech, vol.688, pp.169-194, 2011. ,
Free-wave energy dissipation in experimental breaking waves, J.Phys. Oceanogr, vol.30, pp.2404-2418, 2000. ,
Disintegration of wave trains on deep water, Part1, Theory, J. Fluid Mech, vol.27, pp.417-430, 1967. ,
Laboratory observations of wave group evolution, including breaking effects, J. Fluid Mech, vol.378, pp.197-232, 1999. ,
Wave breaking onset and strength for two-dimensional deep-water wave groups, J. Fluid Mech, vol.585, pp.93-115, 2007. ,
Breaking waves in deep or shallow water, Proc. 10 th Conf. on Naval hydrodynamics, MIT, pp.597-605, 1974. ,
Laboratory studies of nonlinear and breaking surface waves, p.202, 2006. ,
Energy-dissipation by breaking waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr, vol.24, pp.2041-2049, 1994. ,
Laboratory study on the evolution of waves parameters due to wave breaking in deep water, Wave Motion, vol.68, pp.31-42, 2017. ,
Gaussian wave packets -a new approach to seakeeping tests of ocean structures, Applied Ocean Research, vol.8, issue.4, pp.190-206, 1986. ,
Peregrine's System Revisited ,
, Nonlinear Waves and Pattern Dynamics, pp.3-43, 2018.
Modified shallow water equations for significantly varying seabeds, Applied mathematical modelling, issue.40, pp.9767-9787, 2016. ,
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00675209
A new model for the kinematics of large ocean waves-application as a design wave, Proceedings of the first international offshore and polar engineering conference, the international society of offshore and polar engineers, pp.64-71, 1991. ,
Proposed spectral form for fully developed wind seas based on the similarity theory of S.A. Kitaigorodskii, journal of geophysical research, vol.69, pp.5181-5190 ,
,
,
Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP), Deutsches Hydrographisches Institut, vol.12, 1973. ,
Experimental measurement of focused wave group and solitary wave overtopping, J. Hydraul. Res, vol.49, pp.450-464, 2011. ,
,
Optimisation of focused wave group runup on a plane beach, Coast. Eng, vol.121, pp.44-55, 2017. ,
Effects from directionality and spectral bandwidth on nonlinear spatial modulations of deep-water surface gravity wave trains, Coastal Engineering, Proceedings of the XXIV international conference, pp.579-593, 1994. ,
Laboratory study of deep-water breaking waves, Ocean Eng, vol.25, issue.8, pp.657-676, 1998. ,
Energy dissipation of unsteady wave breaking on currents, J. Phys. Oceanogr, vol.34, pp.2288-2304, 2004. ,
Laboratory study on the characteristics of Deep-water Breaking Waves, Procedia Engineering, vol.116, pp.414-421, 2015. ,
A nonlinear mechanism for the generation of sea waves, Proc. Roy. Soc. London, pp.371-389, 1969. ,
On the mass and momentum transfer between short gravity waves and larger-scale motions, Journal. Fluid Mech, vol.50, pp.189-205, 1971. ,
The role of surface-wave breaking in air-sea interaction, Annu. Rev. Fluid. Mech, vol.28, pp.279-321, 1996. ,
Mitsotakis, Finite volume schemes for dispersive wave propagation and runup, J. Comput. Phys, vol.230, issue.8, pp.3035-3061, 2011. ,
Long waves on a beach, J. Fluid Mech, vol.27, pp.815-827, 1967. ,
On the shoreline boundary conditions for Boussinesq-type models, Int. J. Numer. Methods Fluids, vol.37, issue.4, pp.479-500, 2001. ,
Importance of secondorder wave generation for focused wave group runup and overtopping, Coast. Eng, vol.94, pp.63-79, 2014. ,
, WG1 and WG2 are the two used wave gauges. 2. Fig. 2. The experimental dimensionless frequency spectrum for Pierson-Moskowitz, JONSWAP (?=3.3) and JONSWAP (?=7) spectrum. The reference spectrum calculated at x = 4 m is plotted as a dotted line
, The partitioning performed on the spectrum frequency relative to a Pierson-Moskowitz wave train (P-MW4) computed at x = 4 m. (b) The spectrogram relative to P-MW4. Concerning the spectrogram, the horizontal coordinate is the normalized frequency and the vertical coordinate is the abscissa (m) along the flume, The colorbar indicates the dimensionless wave frequency spectrum from x = 4 m to x = 14 m
, Spectrograms obtained by wave gauges through FFT
, The experimentally measured spatial peak frequency evolution of (a) Pierson-Moskowitz wave trains with crest at focusing, (b) Pierson-Moskowitz wave trains with trough at focusing, (c) JONSWAP (? =3.3) wave trains and (d), JONSWAP
, The spatial evolution of the dimensionless energy relative to Pierson-Moskowitz wave trains: squares correspond to the total energy E0, triangles represent the energy in the peak region E1, circles exhibits the energy in the transfer region E2, plus sign (+) illustrates the energy in high frequency region E3
, The spatial evolution of the dimensionless energy relative to JONSWAP (?=3.3) wave trains: squares correspond to the total energy E0, triangles represent the energy in the peak region E1, circles exhibits the energy in the transfer region E2, plus sign (+) illustrates the energy in high frequency region E3
, The spatial evolution of the dimensionless energy relative to JONSWAP (?=7) wave trains: squares correspond to the total energy E0, triangles represent the energy in the peak region E1, circles exhibits the energy in the transfer region E2, plus sign (+) illustrates the energy in high frequency region E3
, The spatial evolution of the dimensionless energy in E4 for Pierson-Moskowitz and JONSWAP wave trains
The experimental (black) and the numerical (red) dimensionless frequency spectrum for Pierson-Moskowitz, JONSWAP (?=3.3) and JONSWAP (?=7) spectrum. For the three wave trains, the wave breaking occurs between x = 12.07 m and x = 12, vol.81 ,
, The numerically predicted spatial peak frequency evolution of (a) Pierson-Moskowitz wave trains with crest at focusing, (b) JONSWAP (? =3.3) wave trains
, JONSWAP (? =7
Comparison of spectrograms obtained by wave gauges and those predicted by the mPeregrine code for JONSWAP wave trains (?=3.3 and ?=7). The figures on the left, vol.12 ,
Comparison of spectrograms obtained by wave gauges and those predicted by the mPeregrine code for Pierson-Moskowitz wave trains, vol.13 ,