Les fruits, le sucre et la tartine de confiture : histoire de l'invention d'une tradition

Maelle Mériaux 1
1 CRBC Rennes - Centre de recherche bretonne et celtique
UR2 - Université de Rennes 2 : EA 4451, CRBC - Centre de recherche bretonne et celtique
Abstract : When people bug us with supposedly traditional jam recipes, lovingly prepared in the antique copper cauldron, they lay it on thick, isn’t it? Let us return to the little-known story of jam, and to the origin of our taste for sugar and fruit. The famous "grandmothers jams" have they been prepared by these countrywomen that we imagine attached to tradition and transmitting recipes from mother to daughter? We will first give an overview of perceptions associated to fruits, sugar and jam in medieval France, revealing first aristocratic uses. Then, this research will lead us in Brittany of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries to understand the intricacies between popular and middle-class cooking, and transmission modalities for each of them. Finally, we will come to the “traditional dessert” in question, to broach concepts of local and seasonal products, the images conveyed by jam industry, and finish with speech associated with their revaluation, at a time when the sugar is in disgrace.
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Maelle Mériaux. Les fruits, le sucre et la tartine de confiture : histoire de l'invention d'une tradition. Francis Favereau. Mélanges en hommage au passeur de mémoire, Skol Vreizh, pp.535-550, 2018. ⟨hal-01985639⟩



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