G. Arnaud, X. Et, and . Bertin, Contribution du setup induit par les vagues dans la surcote 673 associée à la tempête klaus, XIII èmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier _ Génie Civil, pp.674-859, 2014.

T. E. Baldock, Dissipation of incident forced long waves in the surf zone???Implications for the concept of ???bound??? wave release at short wave breaking, Coastal Engineering, vol.60, pp.276-285, 2012.
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.11.002

T. E. Baldock and D. A. Huntley, Long-wave forcing by the breaking of random gravity 681 waves on a beach, Proc. R. Soc. London, pp.2177-2201, 2002.

J. S. Bendat and A. G. Piersol, Random Data: Analysis and Measurement Procedures, p.685, 1971.
DOI : 10.1002/9781118032428

X. Bertin, A. B. Fortunato, A. Oliveira, and A. , A modeling-based analysis of processes driving wave-dominated inlets, Continental Shelf Research, vol.29, issue.5-6, pp.819-834, 2009.
DOI : 10.1016/j.csr.2008.12.019

X. Bertin, K. Li, A. Roland, and J. Bidlot, The contribution of short-waves in storm surges: Two case studies in the Bay of Biscay, Continental Shelf Research, vol.96, pp.1-15, 2015.
DOI : 10.1016/j.csr.2015.01.005

URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01247591

E. Bonneton, F. Barthelemy, R. Chazel, D. Cienfuegos, F. Lannes et al., Recent advances in Serre?Green Naghdi modelling for wave transformation, breaking 693 and runup processes, Eur. J. Mech. B, Fluids, vol.692, pp.30-589, 2011.

N. Booij, R. C. Ris, and L. H. Holthuijsen, A third-generation wave model for coastal 695 regions, Part I, Model description and validation, J.Geoph.Research, vol.104, pp.4-7649, 1999.

A. Chawla and J. T. Kirby, Monochromatic and random wave breaking at blocking 697 points, J. of Geophys. Res, vol.107, pp.10-1029, 2002.
DOI : 10.1029/2001jc001042

URL : http://chinacat.coastal.udel.edu/~kirby/papers/chawla-kirby-jgr02.pdf

J. Chen, T. Hsu, F. Shi, B. Raubenheimer, and S. Elgar, Hydrodynamic and sediment 699 transport modeling of New River Inlet (NC) under the interaction of tides and waves, p.700, 2015.

W. Crawford, V. Ballu, X. Bertin, and M. Karpytchev, The sources of deep ocean infragravity waves observed in the North Atlantic Ocean, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, vol.119, issue.2, pp.5120-5133, 2015.
DOI : 10.1002/2014JB011131

URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01247581

C. Daly, D. Roelvink, A. Van-dongeren, J. Van-thiel-de-vries, and R. Mccall, Validation of an advective-deterministic approach to short wave breaking in a surf-beat model, Coastal Engineering, vol.60, pp.69-83, 2012.
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.08.001

D. P. Dee, S. M. Uppala, and A. J. Simmons, The ERA-Interim reanalysis: configuration and performance of the data assimilation system, Quarterly Journal of the Royal Meteorological Society, vol.91, issue.656, pp.553-597, 2011.
DOI : 10.1002/qj.828

G. Dodet, Morphodynamic modelling of a wave-dominated tidal inlet: the Albufeira 711 Lagoon, pp.207-712, 2013.

G. Dodet, X. Bertin, N. Bruneau, A. B. Fortunato, A. Nahon et al., Wave-current interactions in a wave-dominated tidal inlet, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, vol.40, issue.3-4, pp.1587-716, 2013.
DOI : 10.1142/S0578563412500131

Y. Eldeberky, Applicability of a Stochastic Model to Nonlinear Shoaling of Surface Waves, Coastal Engineering Journal, vol.57, issue.02, pp.1550002-1550012, 2015.
DOI : 10.1142/S0578563415500023

A. Azevedo, X. Bertin, P. Benevides, C. Andrade, and A. Oliveira, Morphological 721 evolution of an ephemeral tidal inlet from opening to closure: The Albufeira inlet, 722 Portugal, Cont. Shelf Res, vol.73, pp.49-63, 2014.

R. Galappatti and C. B. Vreugdenhil, A depth-integrated model for suspended sediment transport, Journal of Hydraulic Research, vol.102, issue.4, pp.359-377, 1985.
DOI : 10.1051/lhb/1974003

W. D. Grant and O. S. Madsen, Combined wave and current interaction with a rough bottom, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, vol.82, issue.12, pp.1797-1808, 1979.
DOI : 10.1029/JC084iC04p01797

R. T. Guza, E. B. Thornton, and R. A. Holman, Swash on Steep and Shallow Beaches, Coastal Engineering 1984, pp.708-729, 1984.
DOI : 10.1061/9780872624382.049

K. Hasselmann, On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum Part 1. General theory, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.7, issue.04, pp.481-500, 1962.
DOI : 10.1017/S0022112062000373

T. H. Herbers, S. Elgar, and R. Guza, Infragravity-Frequency (0.005???0.05 Hz) Motions on the Shelf. Part I: Forced Waves, Journal of Physical Oceanography, vol.24, issue.5, pp.917-927, 1994.
DOI : 10.1175/1520-0485(1994)024<0917:IFHMOT>2.0.CO;2

T. H. Herbers, S. Elgar, and R. Guza, Generation and propagation of 735 infragravitywaves, J. Geophys. Res, vol.100, issue.872, pp.863-887, 1995.

A. Kennedy, Q. Chen, J. Kirby, and R. Dalrymple, Boussinesq Modeling of Wave Transformation, Breaking, and Runup.???I: 1D, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, vol.126, issue.1, pp.39-47, 2000.
DOI : 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2000)126:1(39)

J. H. List, A model for the generation of two-dimensional surfbeat, J. Geophys. Res, vol.97, pp.740-5623, 1992.

J. W. Long and H. T. Özkan?haller, Low?frequency characteristics of wave group? 742 forced vortices, J. Geophys. Res, vol.114, pp.10-1029, 2009.

M. S. Longuet-higgins and R. W. Stewart, Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to ???surf beats???, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.245, issue.04, pp.481-504, 1962.
DOI : 10.1017/S0022112062000877

M. S. Longuet-higgins and R. W. Stewart, Radiation stresses in water waves; a physical discussion, with applications, Deep Sea Research and Oceanographic Abstracts, vol.11, issue.4, pp.529-562, 1964.
DOI : 10.1016/0011-7471(64)90001-4

G. Ma, F. Shi, and J. T. Kirby, Shock-capturing non-hydrostatic model for fully dispersive 748 surface wave processes, Ocean Modelling, pp.43-44, 2012.

. Boussinesq-type and . Model, Part II: Surf beat andswash oscillations for wave groups and 751 irregular waves, Coast. Eng, vol.32, pp.289-319

M. S. Malhadas, P. C. Leitao, A. Silva, and R. Neves, Effect of coastal waves on sea 753 level in Óbidos Lagoon, Portugal, Cont. Shelf Res, vol.19, issue.9, pp.1240-1250, 2009.

G. Masselink, Group bound long waves as a source of infragravity energy in the surf zone, Continental Shelf Research, vol.15, issue.13, pp.1525-1547, 1995.
DOI : 10.1016/0278-4343(95)00037-2

M. Okihiro and R. T. Guza, Observations of Seiche Forcing and Amplification in Three Small Harbors, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, vol.122, issue.5, pp.232-238, 1996.
DOI : 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1996)122:5(232)

M. Olabarrieta, J. C. Warner, and N. Kumar, Wave-current interaction in Willapa Bay, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.2, issue.10, pp.10-1029, 2011.
DOI : 10.1029/2011JC007387

M. Olabarrieta, W. R. Geyer, and N. Kumar, The role of morphology and wave-current 761 interaction at tidal inlets: An idealized modeling analysis, J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, vol.119, pp.762-8818, 2014.

M. Orescanin, B. Raubenheimer, and S. Elgar, Observations of wave effects on inlet circulation, Continental Shelf Research, vol.82, pp.37-42, 2014.
DOI : 10.1016/j.csr.2014.04.010

A. Pomeroy, R. Lowe, G. Symonds, A. Van-dongeren, and C. Moore, The dynamics of 766 infragravity wave transformation over a fringing reef, J. Geophys. Res, vol.117, pp.11022-767, 2012.

D. P. Rijnsdorp, G. Ruessink, and M. Zijlema, Infragravity-wave dynamics in a barred coastal region, a numerical study, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, vol.58, issue.10, pp.4068-4089, 2015.
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.05.015

J. Lescinski, Modeling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands, 2009.

A. Ruju, J. Lara, and I. Losada, Radiation stress and low-frequency energy balance within the surf zone: A numerical approach, Coastal Engineering, vol.68, pp.44-55, 2012.
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.05.003

H. A. Schäffer, Infragravity waves induced by short-wave groups, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.108, issue.-1, pp.551-588, 1993.
DOI : 10.1016/0378-3839(91)90024-B

N. Sénéchal, P. Bonneton, and H. Dupuis, Field observations of irregular wave 785 transformation in the surf zone, Coastal Dynamics '01, pp.62-71, 2001.

A. Sheremet, J. R. Davis, M. Tian, J. L. Hanson, and K. K. Hathaway, TRIADS:A phase-resolving 788 model for nonlinear shoaling of directional wave spectra. Ocean Modelling 99, pp.60-74, 2016.

E. Siegle, D. A. Huntley, and M. A. Davidson, Physical controls on the dynamics of 790 inlet sandbar systems, Ocean Dyn, vol.54, pp.3-4, 2004.

R. Soulsby, Dynamics of marine sands, a manual for practical applications, p.792, 1997.

G. Symonds, D. A. Huntley, and A. J. Bowen, Two-dimensional surf beat: Long wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.202, issue.1, pp.492-498, 1982.
DOI : 10.1029/JC087iC01p00492

URL : http://chinacat.coastal.udel.edu/cieg682/protect/symonds-etal-jgr82.pdf

H. L. Tolman, User manual and system documentation of WAVEWATCH III TM 796 version 3, p.797, 2009.

A. Torres-freyermuth, J. L. Lara, and I. J. Losada, Numerical modelling of short- and long-wave transformation on a barred beach, Coastal Engineering, vol.57, issue.3, pp.317-330, 2010.
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.10.013

Y. Uchiyama and J. C. Mcwilliams, Infragravity waves in the deep ocean: Generation, propagation, and seismic hum excitation, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.96, issue.C2, pp.7029-802, 2008.
DOI : 10.1029/2007JC004562

A. Wargula, B. Raubenheimer, and S. Elgar, Wave-driven along-channel subtidal flows in a well-mixed ocean inlet, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, vol.103, issue.C9, pp.2987-3001, 2014.
DOI : 10.1029/98JC01476

C. J. Willmott, On validation of models, Phys. Geogr, vol.2, pp.184-194, 1981.

M. Zijlema, G. Stelling, and P. Smit, SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters, Coastal Engineering, vol.58, issue.10, pp.992-811, 2011.
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.05.015