Typhoon driven morphodynamics of the Wan Tzu Liao sand barrier (South-Westernmost Taïwan)
Résumé
Both short-term and long-term morphodynamics of sand barrier systems forced by moderate storm conditions have been studied significantly in the literature. However, the dynamics of the emerged beach -- from a seaside water depth of ~ 1.5 metres below the lowest tide to the back-barrier -- impacted by typhoons remain scarcely documented. This study focuses on the analysis and a better understanding of the morphologic changes of such an emerged beach, when it is forced by one typhoon, several typhoons or the combination of a summer season of typhoons and a winter season of Monsoon wave/ wind conditions. The monitoring of near-shore hydrodynamics and beach morphodynamics was performed in the Wan-Tzu-Liao sand barrier from November 2011 to August 2012. Waves, currents and water level were measured at an offshore buoy (Cigu buoy; 18 m of water depth; 1.5 km seaward the studied zone), a current profiler (4 m of water depth), and a serie of pressure sensors deployed along a cross-shore section from the lower intertidal zone up to the eolian dune. Tide was obtained from a tide gauge inside the lagoon and wind conditions were obtained respectively from an inland station and the offshore Cigu buoy. Morphodynamic changes were monitoring thanks to DGDPS surveys performed on a grid including a 300 meters long portion of sand barrier extending from the subtidal zone to the back-barrier, as well as along two cross-shore and two long-shore profiles located within the grid. Surveys were performed each week during winter and just before and after each storm during the typhoons summer season. This field methodology provided a new and very robust dataset in order to quantify sand barrier dynamics exposed to high-energy events at various time scales. Amongst the eight typhoons recorded, TALIM is the most significant and representative. Offshore wave height reached 10.34 m (Tp = 14.6 s) at Cigu buoy and 2.3 m in 4 m of water depth. Morphological changes recorded 6 m of retreat for the dune front, a 20 m large dune breaching and the occurence of a wash-over fan in the lagoon. These changes form a well-known morphodynamic responses to moderate storms. More surprisingly, TALIM drove a significant nourishment of the supratidal zone, as well as a positive sand balance on the whole sand barrier. Five other typhoons resulted in the same type of morphological responses while two typhoons resulted in a strong erosion of the whole emerged beach. During winter and spring (moderate wave conditions and strong Monsoon winds), sand moved from the beach front to the back-barrier. For the whole year, the sand barrier recorded a 12 m landward migration concomitantly with a 12 m widening without abrasion of the dune elevation.