Bed shear stress under skewed and asymmetric oscillatory flows, Coastal Engineering, vol.73, pp.1-10, 2013. ,
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.10.001
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00759053
Surf zone cross-shore boundary layer velocity asymmetry and skewness: An experimental study on a mobile bed, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, vol.31, issue.3, pp.2188-2200, 2013. ,
DOI : 10.1029/2010JC006443
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00909152
A fourth-order compact finite volume scheme for fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq-type equations. Part I: model development and analysis, International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids, vol.37, issue.11, pp.51-1217, 2006. ,
DOI : 10.1002/fld.1141
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00182841
A fourth-order compact finite volume scheme for fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq-type equations. Part II: boundary conditions and validation, International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids, vol.51, issue.9, pp.1423-1455, 2007. ,
DOI : 10.1002/fld.1359
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00182841
Wave-Breaking Model for Boussinesq-Type Equations Including Roller Effects in the Mass Conservation Equation, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, vol.136, issue.1, pp.10-26, 2010. ,
DOI : 10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000022
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00400138
Infragravity-wave dissipation on a low-sloping beach, Proceedings Coastal Dynamics 2013, 2013. ,
Observations of bispectra of shoaling surface gravity waves, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.11, issue.-1, pp.425-448, 1985. ,
DOI : 10.1017/S0022112062000877
Sediment transport associated with morphological beach changes forced by irregular asymmetric, skewed waves, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.115, issue.20, p.3020, 2011. ,
DOI : 10.1029/2010JC006550
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00602903
Swash oscillations on a natural beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.32, issue.C1, pp.483-491, 1982. ,
DOI : 10.1029/JC087iC01p00483
Nearshore sandbar migration predicted by an eddy-diffusivity boundary layer model, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.109, issue.C06024, 2004. ,
Nonlinear generation and loss of infragravity wave energy, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.58, issue.C9, pp.10-1029, 2006. ,
DOI : 10.1029/2006JC003539
Infragravity-Frequency (0.005???0.05 Hz) Motions on the Shelf. Part I: Forced Waves, Journal of Physical Oceanography, vol.24, issue.5, pp.917-927, 1994. ,
DOI : 10.1175/1520-0485(1994)024<0917:IFHMOT>2.0.CO;2
Sand transport beneath waves: The role of progressive wave streaming and other free surface effects, Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface, vol.120, issue.9, pp.1-18, 2013. ,
DOI : 10.1029/2009JC005348
Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes modelling of long waves induced by a transient wave group on a beach, Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, vol.112, issue.1071, 2010. ,
DOI : 10.1098/rspa.1950.0120
Mass Transport in Water Waves, Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, vol.245, issue.903, pp.531-581, 1953. ,
DOI : 10.1098/rsta.1953.0006
Kinematics of waves propagating and breaking on a barred beach, European Journal of Mechanics - B/Fluids, vol.30, issue.6, pp.30-624, 2011. ,
DOI : 10.1016/j.euromechflu.2010.12.004
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00648482
Flow tunnel measurements of velocities and sand flux in oscillatory sheet flow for well-sorted and graded sands, Coastal Engineering, vol.51, issue.11-12, pp.1163-1184, 2004. ,
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2004.08.001
Sediment transport in oscillatory boundary layers in cases of rippled beds and sheet flow, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.113, issue.1, pp.12707-12727, 1994. ,
DOI : 10.1029/94JC00380
Nonlinearities of short and long waves across the shoaling, surf and swash zones: large-scale physical model results, Proceedings Coastal Dynamics 2013, 2013. ,
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00909139
Observations of swash under highly dissipative conditions, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, vol.89, issue.2, pp.3111-3118, 1998. ,
DOI : 10.1029/97JC02791
Observations of velocities, sand concentrations, and fluxes under velocity-asymmetric oscillatory flows, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.57, issue.3, p.10, 1029. ,
DOI : 10.1029/2010JC006443
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00602913
Abstract, Netherlands Journal of Geosciences, vol.109, issue.03, pp.357-372, 2012. ,
DOI : 10.1016/S0025-3227(98)00133-9
GLOBEX: Wave dynamics on a gently sloping laboratory beach, Proceedings Coastal Dynamics 2013, 2013. ,
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00909140
Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.118, issue.1, 2004. ,
DOI : 10.1029/2003JC002160
Transient swash motions on a gently sloping beach, Proceedings Coastal Dynamics 2013, 2013. ,
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00909141
Numerical analysis of run-up oscillations under dissipative conditions, Coastal Engineering, vol.86, pp.45-56, 2014. ,
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2014.01.010
Mechanisms for beach erosion during storms, Continental Shelf Research, vol.13, issue.11, pp.1243-1265, 1993. ,
DOI : 10.1016/0278-4343(93)90051-X
Wave runup during extreme storm conditions, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.56, issue.C11, pp.10-1029, 2011. ,
DOI : 10.1029/2010JC006819
Field measurements and non-linear prediction of wave celerity in the surf zone, European Journal of Mechanics - B/Fluids, vol.30, issue.6, pp.635-641, 2011. ,
DOI : 10.1016/j.euromechflu.2010.11.003
Role of short and long-wave interaction on wave celerity in the surf zone of a low-sloping beach, Proceedings Coastal Dynamics 2013, 2013. ,
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00909144
Measurements of sheet flow transport in acceleration-skewed oscillatory flow and comparison with practical formulations, Coastal Engineering, vol.57, issue.3, pp.331-342, 2010. ,
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.11.006
Wave boundary layer dynamics on a low sloping laboratory beach, Proceedings Coastal Dynamics 2013, 2013. ,
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00909145
Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of low-frequency waves, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.32, issue.C8, pp.10-1029, 2007. ,
DOI : 10.1029/2006JC003701
Analysis of dune erosion processes in large-scale flume experiments, Coastal Engineering, vol.55, issue.12, pp.1028-1040, 2008. ,
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.04.004
Sediment transport under wave groups: Relative importance between nonlinear waveshape and nonlinear boundary layer streaming, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.132, issue.10, pp.10-1029, 2010. ,
DOI : 10.1029/2009JC005348