GLOBEX: Wave dynamics on a shallow sloping beach

Hervé Michallet (1) , B. Gerben Ruessink (2, 3) , Mariana Vieira Lima Matias da Rocha (1, 4) , Anouk de Bakker (5) , Dominic A. van Der A (6) , Andrea Ruju (7) , Paulo A. Silva (4) , Nadia Sénéchal (8) , Vincent Marieu (8) , Marion Tissier (5) , Rafael Almar (9) , Tiago Abreu (10) , Florent Birrien (8) , Laure Vignal (1) , Eric Barthélemy (1) , Dominique Mouazé (11) , Rodrigo Cienfuegos (12) , Peter Wellens (13)

1 LEGI - Laboratoire des Écoulements Géophysiques et Industriels [Grenoble]
2 IMAU - Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research [Utrecht]
3 Universiteit Utrecht / Utrecht University [Utrecht]
4 Departamento de Fisica [Aveiro]
5 Department of Physical Geography
6 School of Engineering
7 School of Marine Science and Engineering
8 EPOC - Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques
9 LEGOS - Laboratoire d'études en Géophysique et océanographie spatiales
10 School of Engineering (ISEP) of the Polytechnic Institute of Porto (IPP)
11 M2C - Morphodynamique Continentale et Côtière
12 Departamento de Ingenierıa Hidraulica y Ambiental
13 Deltares

As waves approach the shore, their non-linear dynamics becomes increasingly important. Most of our understanding of wave non-linearity has resulted from theoretical work, laboratory experiments and field studies on beaches slopes steeper than about 1:40. There, very strong non-linear processes happen locally and on a short time scale, as demonstrated by narrow surf zones with plunging or collapsing breakers. The non-linearity on gently-sloping beaches, typical of high-energy dissipative environments, has a different character, as it can build up over a long period of time and along an extensive cross-shore area. This contribution serves to introduce the GLOBEX project, during which a high-resolution (in space and time) data set of the cross-shore evolution of short and infragravity waves was collected on a low-sloping (1:80) non-mobile laboratory beach. As non-linear transfers also occur in the vertical from the free-stream flow downwards into the bottom boundary layer, additional flow measurements performed with Laser Doppler Anemometry are also briefly presented.

Domaines: Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]

Hervé Michallet, B. Gerben Ruessink, Mariana Vieira Lima Matias da Rocha, Anouk de Bakker, Dominic A. van Der A, et al.. GLOBEX: Wave dynamics on a shallow sloping beach. HYDRALAB IV Joint User Meeting, Lisbon, July 2014, Jul 2014, Lisbonne, Portugal. ⟨hal-01084718⟩