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GLOBEX: Wave dynamics on a shallow sloping beach

Abstract : As waves approach the shore, their non-linear dynamics becomes increasingly important. Most of our understanding of wave non-linearity has resulted from theoretical work, laboratory experiments and field studies on beaches slopes steeper than about 1:40. There, very strong non-linear processes happen locally and on a short time scale, as demonstrated by narrow surf zones with plunging or collapsing breakers. The non-linearity on gently-sloping beaches, typical of high-energy dissipative environments, has a different character, as it can build up over a long period of time and along an extensive cross-shore area. This contribution serves to introduce the GLOBEX project, during which a high-resolution (in space and time) data set of the cross-shore evolution of short and infragravity waves was collected on a low-sloping (1:80) non-mobile laboratory beach. As non-linear transfers also occur in the vertical from the free-stream flow downwards into the bottom boundary layer, additional flow measurements performed with Laser Doppler Anemometry are also briefly presented.
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Submitted on : Wednesday, November 19, 2014 - 7:37:18 PM
Last modification on : Wednesday, June 1, 2022 - 4:19:32 AM
Long-term archiving on: : Friday, February 20, 2015 - 11:20:27 AM


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  • HAL Id : hal-01084718, version 1


Hervé Michallet, B. Gerben Ruessink, Mariana Vieira Lima Matias da Rocha, Anouk de Bakker, Dominic A. van Der A, et al.. GLOBEX: Wave dynamics on a shallow sloping beach. HYDRALAB IV Joint User Meeting, Lisbon, July 2014, Jul 2014, Lisbonne, Portugal. ⟨hal-01084718⟩



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