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Globex: wave dynamics on a gently sloping laboratory beach

Abstract : As waves approach the shore, non-linearity in their dynamics becomes increasingly important. Most of our understanding of wave non-linearity has resulted from theoretical work, laboratory experiments and field studies on beaches slopes steeper than about 1:40. Here, very strong non-linear processes happen locally and on a short time scale, as demonstrated by narrow surf zones with plunging or collapsing breakers. The non-linearity on lower sloping beaches, typical of high-energy dissipative environments, has a different character, as it can now build up over a long period of time in a cross-shore extensive area. This second case of strong non-linearity is not well understood. This contribution serves to introduce the GLOBEX project, during which a high-resolution (in space and time) data set of the cross-shore evolution of short and infragravity waves was collected on a low-sloping (1:80) non-mobile laboratory beach for a range of wave conditions. Various other presentations at the conference will build on this introductory contribution.
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https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00909140
Contributor : Hervé Michallet Connect in order to contact the contributor
Submitted on : Monday, November 25, 2013 - 7:58:55 PM
Last modification on : Wednesday, November 17, 2021 - 12:27:08 PM

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  • HAL Id : hal-00909140, version 1

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B. Gerben Ruessink, Hervé Michallet, Philippe Bonneton, Dominique Mouazé, Javier L. Lara, et al.. Globex: wave dynamics on a gently sloping laboratory beach. 7th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics, Jun 2013, Arcachon, France. pp.1351 - 1362. ⟨hal-00909140⟩

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