Trapping and resonance of long shelf waves due to groups of short waves, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.151, issue.-1, pp.201-221, 1988. ,
DOI : 10.1017/S0022112067001181
Irregular wave runup on smooth slope, p.18, 1981. ,
DOI : 10.5962/bhl.title.48320
URL : http://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/item/102663
The Boundary Value Problem for the Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations, Studies in Applied Mathematics, vol.445, issue.1, pp.73-93, 2007. ,
DOI : 10.1017/S002211208700329X
Wave motion, 2001. ,
DOI : 10.1017/CBO9780511841033
Integral flow properties of the swash zone and averaging, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.129, issue.-1, pp.241-273, 1996. ,
DOI : 10.1016/0378-3839(89)90032-X
Stability of sloping structures in relation to ?? = tan??/???H/Lo risk criteria in design, Coastal Engineering, vol.1, issue.2, pp.287-322, 1977. ,
DOI : 10.1016/0378-3839(77)90020-5
A critical review of the hydraulics of rubble mound structures The Norwegian Institute of Technology Trondheim, p.22, 1974. ,
Gravity waves on water of variable depth, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.4, issue.04, pp.641-659, 1966. ,
DOI : 10.1017/S0022112066000892
Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.1, issue.01, pp.97-109, 1958. ,
DOI : 10.1017/S0022112058000331
Tsunami run-up and draw-down on a plane beach, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.475, issue.5, pp.79-99, 2003. ,
DOI : 10.1017/S0022112002002653
Finite volume schemes for dispersive wave propagation and runup, Journal of Computational Physics, vol.230, issue.8, pp.3035-3061, 2010. ,
DOI : 10.1016/j.jcp.2011.01.003
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00472431
The VOLNA code for the numerical modeling of tsunami waves: Generation, propagation and inundation, European Journal of Mechanics - B/Fluids, vol.30, issue.6, pp.598-615, 2011. ,
DOI : 10.1016/j.euromechflu.2011.05.005
Physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a beach, Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics, vol.20, issue.1, pp.35-40, 2013. ,
DOI : 10.5194/npg-20-35-2013
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00825386
Extreme runup from the 17 July 2006 Java tsunami, Geophysical Research Letters, vol.144, issue.3???4, p.12602, 2006. ,
DOI : 10.1029/2007GL029404
The normal flux method at the boundary for multidimensional finite volume approximations in CFD, European Journal of Mechanics - B/Fluids, vol.24, issue.1, pp.1-17, 2005. ,
DOI : 10.1016/j.euromechflu.2004.05.003
Localization of harmonics generated in nonlinear shallow water waves, Physical Review E, vol.68, issue.2, p.26314, 2002. ,
DOI : 10.1103/PhysRevE.68.026314
Numerical Simulation of the 2011 Tohoku Tsunami Based on a New Transient FEM Co-seismic Source: Comparison to Far- and Near-Field Observations, Pure and Applied Geophysics, vol.170, issue.6-8, 2002. ,
DOI : 10.1007/s00024-012-0528-y
Local behaviour of tsunamis, Waves on Water of Variable Depth, pp.72-79, 1977. ,
DOI : 10.1007/3540082530_137
Initial Value Problem Solution of Nonlinear Shallow Water-Wave Equations, Physical Review Letters, vol.97, issue.14, pp.148501-148506, 2006. ,
DOI : 10.1103/PhysRevLett.97.148501
Long wave runup on piecewise linear topographies, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.374, issue.13, pp.1-28, 1998. ,
DOI : 10.1017/S0022112098002468
Focusing of long waves with finite crest over constant depth, Proc. R. Soc. A, pp.46920130015-20130015, 2002. ,
DOI : 10.1111/j.1365-246X.2004.02347.x
Water wave run-up on a beach, Department of the Navy, p.22, 1964. ,
Numerical simulation of two-dimensional overtopping against seawalls armored with artificial units in regular waves, Journal of Hydrodynamics, Ser. B, vol.19, issue.3, pp.322-329, 2007. ,
DOI : 10.1016/S1001-6058(07)60065-1
A new Boussinesq method for fully nonlinear waves from shallow to deep water, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.462, pp.1-30, 2002. ,
DOI : 10.1017/S0022112002008467
Run-up of tsunamis and long waves in terms of surf-similarity, Coastal Engineering, vol.55, issue.3, pp.209-223, 2008. ,
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.09.007
On the solitary wave paradigm for tsunamis, Journal of Geophysical Research, vol.402, issue.4, pp.12012-12034, 2008. ,
DOI : 10.1029/2008JC004932
A fractional step method for unsteady free-surface flow with applications to non-linear wave dynamics, International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids, vol.16, issue.2, pp.293-315, 1998. ,
DOI : 10.1002/(SICI)1097-0363(19980815)28:2<293::AID-FLD719>3.0.CO;2-1
Theory and applications of ocean surface waves: Linear aspects, World Scientific, p.18, 2005. ,
Resonant response of harbours: an equivalent-circuit analysis, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.45, issue.02, pp.241-265, 1971. ,
DOI : 10.1121/1.1916327
Long waves on the continental shelf: an experiment to separate trapped and leaky modes, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.43, issue.04, pp.529-554, 1964. ,
DOI : 10.1016/0146-6313(61)90018-1
Exact analytical solutions of nonlinear problems of tsunami wave run-up on slopes with different profiles, Natural Hazards, vol.74, issue.4, pp.227-249, 1992. ,
DOI : 10.1007/BF00129510
Influence of Seiche Oscillations on the Formation of the Long- Wave Spectrum Near the Coast of the Southern Kuriles, Oceanology, vol.32, issue.2, pp.17-23, 1992. ,
Meteorological tsunamis: Atmospherically induced destructive ocean waves in the tsunami frequency band, Physics and Chemistry of the Earth, Parts A/B/C, vol.34, issue.17-18, pp.17-18891, 2009. ,
DOI : 10.1016/j.pce.2009.10.006
A high-order adaptive time-stepping TVD solver for Boussinesq modeling of breaking waves and coastal inundation. Ocean Modelling, pp.43-4436, 2012. ,
Local Run-Up Amplification by Resonant Wave Interactions, Physical Review Letters, vol.107, issue.12, pp.124502-124524, 2011. ,
DOI : 10.1103/PhysRevLett.107.124502
URL : http://arxiv.org/abs/1107.0304
The runup of solitary waves, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, vol.87, issue.-1, pp.523-545, 1987. ,
DOI : 10.1017/S0022112058000331
Standards, criteria, and procedures for NOAA evaluation of tsunami numerical models, 2007. ,
Evolution of Maximum Amplitude of Solitary Waves on Plane Beaches, Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, vol.119, issue.3, pp.323-342, 1993. ,
DOI : 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1993)119:3(323)
The Run-Up of N-Waves on Sloping Beaches, Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A, pp.99-112, 1994. ,
DOI : 10.1098/rspa.1994.0050
Model for the Leading Waves of Tsunamis, Physical Review Letters, vol.77, issue.10, pp.2141-2144, 1996. ,
DOI : 10.1103/PhysRevLett.77.2141
A new approach to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq models, Coastal Engineering, vol.67, pp.54-66, 2012. ,
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.04.004
URL : https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00798996
Field survey of the East Java earthquake and tsunami of June 3, 1994, Pure and Applied Geophysics PAGEOPH, vol.2, issue.37, pp.839-854, 1994. ,
DOI : 10.1007/BF00874397
Dublin 4, Ireland E-mail address: themistoklisstef@yahoo.co.uk University College Dublin, School of Mathematical Sciences, Belfield, Dublin 4, Ire- land E-mail address: shanshan.xu@ucdconnect.ie University College Dublin E-mail address: Denys.Dutykh@ucd.ie URL: http://www.denys-dutykh, School of Mathematical Sciences, vol.4 ,