Roller modelling in the context of undertow prediction

Rodrigo Cienfuegos , Eric Barthélemy (1) , Philippe Bonneton (2)

1 LEGI - Laboratoire des Écoulements Géophysiques et Industriels [Grenoble]
2 EPOC - Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques

In this paper we investigate the energy-based roller equations previously published by Stive and De Vriend (1994) and Dally and Brown (1995). Although these models differ by a factor of 2 in one of their terms, the same parameter values are commonly used to solve them. Our aim is to elucidate these discrepancies and to explore the physical adequacy of the roller models by using an inverse modelling technique based on undertow measurements. Comparison with Cox (1995) experimental data on regular waves propagating on a planar beach shows that a realistic contribution of potential energy in the roller equation should be included.

Domaines: Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]; Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]

Rodrigo Cienfuegos, Eric Barthélemy, Philippe Bonneton. Roller modelling in the context of undertow prediction. 29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2004, Sep 2004, Lisbon, Portugal. pp.318-330, ⟨10.1142/9789812701916_0024⟩. ⟨hal-00183259⟩