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| HAL : hal-00724936, version 1 |
| DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.12.004 |
| Fiche détaillée |  Récupérer au format |
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| Coastal Engineering 61 (2012) 42-48 |
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| A new breaking wave height direct estimator from video imagery |
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| Rafael Almar 1, 2Rodrigo Cienfuegos 1 |
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| (2012) |
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| Breaker height is a key parameter of nearshore processes and the demand for a continuous remote estimator is pressing. In this paper we present a standalone remote video-based method that estimates wave height at the breakpoint. Individual breaking events are first identified from changes in optical properties and wave height is further derived from the optical signature at the onset of breaking. An extended validation is performed using a dense wave basin dataset. The results show the ability of the method to measure individual breaker heights (9% of mean error, 18% RMS). In addition, the unique combination of in situ and remotely sensed data allows the estimation of two other breaking-related parameters, the height-to-depth ratio and wave front face slope, which show a substantial amount of dispersion. Because nearshore video systems are rapidly spreading over world coasts, this low-cost remote breaker height estimator should encounter large interest in coastal engineering studies. |
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| 1 : | Departamento de Ingenierıa Hidraulica y Ambiental |
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Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile |
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| 2 : | Laboratoire d'études en Géophysique et océanographie spatiales (LEGOS) |
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CNRS : UMR5566 – Institut de recherche pour le développement [IRD] – CNES – Observatoire Midi-Pyrénées – INSU – Université Paul Sabatier [UPS] - Toulouse III |
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| 3 : | Departamento de Obras Civiles |
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Universidad Técnica Federico Santa María (UTFSM) |
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| 4 : | Laboratoire des écoulements géophysiques et industriels (LEGI) |
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CNRS : UMR5519 – Université Joseph Fourier - Grenoble I – Institut polytechnique de Grenoble (Grenoble INP) |
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| 5 : | Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques (EPOC) |
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CNRS : UMR5805 – INSU – Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux I – Ecole Pratique des Hautes Etudes – Observatoire Aquitain des Sciences de l'Univers |
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| Domaine | : | Physique/Mécanique/Mécanique des fluides Sciences de l'ingénieur/Mécanique/Mécanique des fluides |
| hal-00724936, version 1 | |
| http://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00724936 | |
| oai:hal.archives-ouvertes.fr:hal-00724936 | |
| Contributeur : Hervé Michallet | |
| Soumis le : Jeudi 23 Août 2012, 12:18:17 | |
| Dernière modification le : Mardi 18 Décembre 2012, 18:45:10 | |
