 |
 |
|
|
| HAL: hal-00605461, version 2 |
| arXiv: 1107.0304 |
| DOI: 10.1103/PhysRevLett.107.124502 |
| Detailed view |  Export this paper |
 |
| Physical Review Letters 107 (2011) 124502 |
|
|
| Available versions: | v1 (2011-07-01) | v2 (2011-08-24) |
|
|
|
|
| Local Runup Amplification By Resonant Wave Interactions |
|
|
| Themistoklis Stefanakis 1, 2Frédéric Dias 1, 2 |
|
|
| (2011-09-16) |
|
|
|
| Until now the analysis of long wave runup on a plane beach has been focused on finding its maximum value, failing to capture the existence of resonant regimes. One-dimensional numerical simulations in the framework of the Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (NSWE) are used to investigate the Boundary Value Problem (BVP) for plane and non-trivial beaches. Monochromatic waves, as well as virtual wave-gage recordings from real tsunami simulations, are used as forcing conditions to the BVP. Resonant phenomena between the incident wavelength and the beach slope are found to occur, which result in enhanced runup of non-leading waves. The evolution of energy reveals the existence of a quasi-periodic state for the case of sinusoidal waves, the energy level of which, as well as the time required to reach that state, depend on the incident wavelength for a given beach slope. Dispersion is found to slightly reduce the value of maximum runup, but not to change the overall picture. Runup amplification occurs for both leading elevation and depression waves. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 1: | Centre de Mathématiques et de Leurs Applications (CMLA) |
|
|
|
CNRS : UMR8536 – École normale supérieure de Cachan - ENS Cachan |
|
|
| 2: | School of Mathematical Sciences |
|
|
|
University College Dublin |
|
|
| 3: | Laboratoire de Mathématiques (LAMA) |
|
|
|
CNRS : UMR5127 – Université de Savoie |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Subject | : | Physics/Mechanics/Mechanics of the fluids Engineering Sciences/Mechanics/Fluids mechanics Physics/Physics/Fluid Dynamics Physics/Physics/Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics Sciences of the Universe/Ocean, Atmosphere Sciences of the Universe/Earth Sciences/Geophysics Physics/Physics/Geophysics Environmental Sciences/Global Changes Nonlinear Sciences/Pattern Formation and Solitons Engineering Sciences/Reactive fluid environment |
|
|
| long wave runup – resonance – NSWE – BVP |
|
|
|
| Attached file list to this document: | ||||||||||
|
||||||||||
|
|
|
| hal-00605461, version 2 | |
| http://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00605461 | |
| oai:hal.archives-ouvertes.fr:hal-00605461 | |
| From: Denys Dutykh | |
| Submitted on: Wednesday, 24 August 2011 15:47:01 | |
| Updated on: Friday, 16 September 2011 18:51:37 | |
