%0 Journal Article
%T Growth of surface wind-waves in water of finite depth. A theoretical approach
%+ Laboratoire Charles Coulomb (L2C)
%+ Institut de Recherche sur les Phénomènes Hors Equilibre (IRPHE)
%A Montalvo, Pablo
%A Dorignac, Jerome
%A Manna, Miguel
%A Kharif, Christian
%A Branger, Hubert
%< avec comité de lecture
%Z L2C:12-213
%@ 0378-3839
%J Coastal Engineering
%I Elsevier
%V 77
%P 49-56
%8 2013-07
%D 2013
%Z 1206.1491
%R 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2013.02.008
%K Wind-generated waves
%K Wind-waves growth rates
%K Miles' theory
%Z Physics [physics]/Physics [physics]/Fluid Dynamics [physics.flu-dyn]Journal articles
%X In order to study the growth of wind waves in finite depth we extend Miles' theory to the finite depth domain. A depth-dependent wave growth rate is derived from the dispersion relation of the wind/water interface. A suitable dimensionless finite depth wave age parameter allows us to plot a family of wave growth curves, each family member characterized by the water depth. Two major results are that for small wave age, the wave growth rates are comparable to those of deep water and for large wave age, a finite-depth wave-age-limited growth is reached, with wave growth rates going to zero. The corresponding limiting wave length and limiting phase speed are explicitely calculated in the shallow and in the deep water cases. A qualitative agreement with well-known empirical results is established and shows the robust consistency of the linear theoretical approach.
%G English
%L hal-00749901
%U https://hal.science/hal-00749901
%~ CNRS
%~ UNIV-AMU
%~ IRPHE
%~ EC-MARSEILLE
%~ L2C
%~ MIPS
%~ UNIV-MONTPELLIER
%~ ANR
%~ UM-2015-2021
%~ PEIRESC