Hydrodynamique extrême près des cotes

Pauline Robin (1) , Olivier Kimmoun (1) , Hubert Branger (1) , Christian Kharif (1)

1 IRPHE - Institut de Recherche sur les Phénomènes Hors Equilibre

During extreme weather events like cyclones and storms, wave formation with important breaking, coastal flooding can cause human and material damage (Xynthia, february 2010). Today, the hydrodynamic modeling related to these extreme events and its consequences are insufficient. A Boussinesq-type model has been developed taking into account the combined effects of wave / wind / wave. It described here, with the addition of a term of wind and breaking. The model is compared with experiments conducted in the large air-sea facitily of IRPHE at Marseille-Luminy on focusing waves in the presence of wind. Then the first results of a measurement campaign on the runup / rowndown waves on a sloping beach in windy conditions, carried out in this large air-sea facility are presented.

Mots clés: hydrodynmique extreme; rogue wave; freak wave; surf zone; shoaling; wind effect; wind waves; facility

Domaines: Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]; Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]; Océan, Atmosphère

Pauline Robin, Olivier Kimmoun, Hubert Branger, Christian Kharif. Hydrodynamique extrême près des cotes. Proceeding of the 12 ème Journées hydrodynamique, 2010, ISSN 1161-1847, 13pp. ⟨hal-00556575⟩