Run up of surface and internal waves

Hubert Branger (1) , Olivier Kimmoun (1, 2) , N. Gavrilov (3) , Valery Liapidevskii (3) , E. Pavlova (3)

1 IRPHE - Institut de Recherche sur les Phénomènes Hors Equilibre
2 EGIM - Ecole Generaliste d'Ingénieur de Marseille
3 LIH - Lavrentyev Institute of Hydrodynamics

The evolution of breaking waves propagating towards the shore and more specifically the run-up phase over the swash-zone for surface as well as for internal waves is considered. The study is based on a) laboratory run up experiments for surface waves ; b) laboratory stratified flow experiments and c) on field data describing the internal wave run up. The presentation is focused on the breaking and energy transfer mechanisms common to surface and internal waves in the swash-zone. The mathematical model taking into account turbulent mixing and dispersion effects is discussed.

Mots clés: breaking; waves; surface waves; internal waves; runup; run-up; shelf zone; coastal zone

Domaines: Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]; Mécanique des fluides [physics.class-ph]; Océan, Atmosphère

Hubert Branger, Olivier Kimmoun, N. Gavrilov, Valery Liapidevskii, E. Pavlova. Run up of surface and internal waves. International conference on fluxes and structure in fluids, Jul 2007, St-Petersburg, Russia. ⟨hal-00230147⟩